Want to know how to prevent a door from sticking? The standard method for fixing a door that sticks is to plane the edge that’s rubbing in order to let it freely swing. This always cures the problem, although it’s a big hassle. Try the following shortcuts before you get too far ahead of yourself. In most cases, usually one of them will fix your sticky door.
Tighten the Hinge Screws
Tighten the door’s hinge screws on both the jamb and the door. Snug them tightly with a screwdriver instead of a drill in order to prevent stripping the holes. If your sticky door is dragging on the floor or rubbing at the top, use a screwdriver to tighten all the screws.
Adjust the Hinges
Run a three-inch screw through the door jamb and into the framing of the wall in order to pull the hinge inward. In general, door hinges aren’t actually adjustable. However, by driving a fairly long screw through the door jamb and into the framing, it will pull the jamb and hinge toward the door frame and reposition the door somewhat. Prior to driving the screw, shut the door to figure out precisely where it’s rubbing along the jamb. Pull in the upper hinge if it rubs close to the top of the door’s side jamb. If it rubs near the head jamb or lower side jamb, pull in the hinge at the bottom. If the door is rubbing all along the door’s side jamb, pull in all the hinges. Frequently, the door can be moved as much as 1/8-inch using this technique.
In order to use this method to prevent a door from sticking, remove one of the screws close to the center of the hinge. Next, drive in a three-inch screw using a drill. Once the screw is tight against the hinge, turn the screw another quarter of the way. Shut the door to see how it fits. Keep checking and tightening until the door stops sticking. Watch the trim of the door while tightening so you don’t create gaps.
Look at the gap along the top of your door. If it appears wider on the side of the doorknob, remove the middle screw along the top hinge and then replace it using a three-inch predrilled screw slightly angled toward the center of the door jamb. Hopefully, the screw will successfully pull the door and jamb tighter to the frame of the door and solve the problem.
Draw or Pull in the Door Jamb
Proceed to drill a 1/8-inch hole and make room for a screw head using a countersink bit. Next, drive a three-inch screw into the framing of the wall in order to pull in the jamb.
By putting a long screw in the jamb’s latch side, it’s often possible to pull in the jamb and allow the door to have a bit of extra space. Only try it if pulling in the hinges fails. Countersink your screw head using a countersink bit. After that, drive a screw close to the center of the place where your door is rubbing. Keep in mind that you might need a second screw. Gradually tighten the screws and keep your eye on the trim to ensure the joints are okay. Using wood filler, cover your screw heads and proceed to sand and either paint or stain your filler so it will match.
Use a Belt Sander to Plane the Door
First, scribe your door. Place the point of the compass and your pencil tip 1/8-inch apart and then run your point alongside the jamb.
If the door is still sticking even after tightening and driving in the screws, at this point you’ll need to plane the door. Begin by scribing it at the place where it’s rubbing against the top or side of the jamb, according to the San Francisco Gate. The ideal tool for this task is a carpenter’s compass. Take off the door. Use a belt sander rather than an actual “plane” in order to plane the door. Some people like to use an electric planer or even hand plane. Start with a course 50-grit belt, which will plane the door very quickly. Keep your sander continuously moving to avoid grinding a hole in one area. When you’re around 1/16-inch from the scribe line, stop and change to an 80-grit sanding belt and sand all the way to your line. Finish up by using a 120-grit sanding belt in order to properly smooth the edge of the door.
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Finally, put the door back up on the hinges and check how it fits. It’s possible you may have to take it back off and sand a bit more off. If you succeeded in creating a 1/8-inch gap between the jamb and the door, you’re ready to either stain or paint the sanded door edge. Finish the job while it’s in place or take the door back off. If the door’s bottom or top edges are unfinished, simply varnish or paint them. A fresh coat of varnish will limit how much the door swells or shrinks since it works to slow down the amount of moisture that penetrates wood and will help prevent a door from sticking in the future.
